From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/S4lVin, Jun 14 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1u5zpf2/bambus_stock_cooling_profiles_are_completely/ I spent the whole day running part cooling experiments on my A1 Mini because I suspected the stock Bambu Studio/OrcaSlicer profiles were doing something stupid. Turns out, they are. If you look at the default PLA settings, it says: Min Fan 60% for an 80s layer, and Max 100% for a 6s layer. Why on earth are we blasting a part with a constant 60% fan when it takes over a minute to print a single layer? It has plenty of time to cool naturally. It feels like Bambu is sacrificing massive amounts of layer adhesion just to be "safe". So I decided to test the actual thermodynamic limits of my setup. **The setup** I designed a custom overhang test with 35° angles (i found out it's the biggest angle that doesn't trigger the slicer's default 50% overhang threshold) and printed it in SUNLU PLA+ at \~24°C room temp. I manipulated the layer times by printing dummy cylinders of different sizes next to the part. **Test 1: Long layers (25s) at high speed** Printing at 200-300mm/s, but forcing a 25-second layer time. I dropped the fan (in 10% steps) from 40% all the way to 0% (40% at the lowest layer to 0% at the highest layer). Result: It printed flawlessly at 0%. No curling at all. Natural convection is enough. Bambu blasting 60% at 80s layer time is just ruining your structural strength for absolutely no visual gain. Test 1 print: [https://ibb.co/HTmRxXZF](https://ibb.co/HTmRxXZF) **Test 2: Short layers (6s) at high speed** Same 200-300mm/s speed, but forcing a quick 6-second layer time. I dropped the fan from 100% down to 20% (in 20% steps) (100% at the lowest layer to 20% at the highest layer). Result: It started curling at 20%, but it printed perfectly fine at 40-50%. You don't even need 100% fan to freeze a 6s layer. Test 2 in slicer (7.3s layer time shown, but measured was 6.1s, dk why): [https://ibb.co/n8VjBWtd](https://ibb.co/n8VjBWtd) Test 2 print: [https://ibb.co/GhSPQN0](https://ibb.co/GhSPQN0) **Bonus WTF: The TPU Profile** If you think the PLA settings are bad, go look at Bambu's default TPU profiles. They keep the part cooling fan at a CONSTANT 100%. Always. This is mind-blowing. The golden rule of printing TPU has always been to use very low cooling (around 20%, or completely off for long layers) to make sure the rubber actually melts together and bonds. Blasting TPU with 100% fan constantly is a surefire way to get weak, delaminating parts that snap instead of flexing. Why would they do this?! **Why is Bambu doing this?** The main issue here is Bambu's extreme "idiot-proofing" at the expense of your part's strength. They crank the minimum cooling so high for two reasons: 1. **Aesthetics over everything:** They want to guarantee perfectly sharp overhangs out of the box but they happily sacrifice your structural layer adhesion because most people won't notice until the part breaks. 2. **Blower fan inertia:** Blower fans take time to spool up. If you run at 0% for a long layer and suddenly hit a steep overhang at 300mm/s, the fan simply can't spin up to 100% fast enough before the nozzle moves past it. Keeping a baseline of 60% keeps the fan ready. **Side note: Slicer math is dumb anyway** As a secondary finding, my testing proved that slicers calculate cooling wrong anyway. I ran a 3rd test: I printed a 6s layer again, but at a total crawl (20mm/s). The visual quality was identical even down at 20% fan. Because slicers only look at *Layer Time*, they ignore *Volumetric Flow Rate*. A 6s layer printed at 20mm/s needs way less cooling than a 6s layer printed at 300mm/s because there is way less thermal mass being dropped. But the slicer commands the exact same fan speed for both. **TL;DR:** Bambu's stock PLA defaults use way too much fan on layers longer than 15-20s, silently destroying your part's structural strength for zero aesthetic benefit. If you want functional parts, you need to tune your cooling way down. Has anyone else noticed this and overhauled their cooling profiles?

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/tomtom070, Jun 13 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1u4vnaa/my_medusa_box_is_finished/ I posted my first prototype here a while ago. Now the project is finished. Crazy thing is modeling the mechanism was done in like to days. Modeling the decoration took me weeks (I'm bad at that 😕 ) Edit: Here is a makerworld link for those interested. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/2927679-medusa-box](https://makerworld.com/en/models/2927679-medusa-box) I think selling them would be too much work but you can leave a boost token or something if you want.

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/cavalluzzi, Jun 01 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tu51mm/i_spent_2_years_figuring_out_how_to_3d_print/ Quick backstory: I’m an italian eyewear designer and Italy has one of the biggest eyewear manufacturing districts in the world, where Gucci, Prada and many other big brands sunglasses are made. When manufacturers cut the frames from the acetate slab, over 70% of the material becomes offcuts, and the most is sent to landfill. So, I got obsessed with the idea of printing with it and close the loop. I found out that acetate is a nightmare to print. It's hygroscopic, the layer adhesion is terrible, and there's basically zero literature on it for FDM. I spent a long time failing before I understood that the material had to be modified somehow. Long story short, After a couple of years of interviews with researchers and extrusion trials with a local filament production company, plus 3d printing trials with my 3d printer, I ended up developing a compound (recycled acetate + biodegradable additives), got a patent on it and started producing it as a filament with the local manufacturer. Saved more than 200kgs of acetate till now Still some open questions, drying is crucial, heat resistance is not the best and a 0.8 nozzle is more reliable, but now it’s printable and layer adhesion issues are solved. Curious if anyone here has worked with cellulose acetate or other plasticized polymers and ran into similar issues. Happy to share what I've learned so far.

From Reddit saved comment — r/3Dprinting, u/q51, May 27 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tplk08/how_to_fix_a_join_problem/oo9sv5p/ Comment on: How to fix a join problem You can print something like a clearance tester eg https://makerworld.com/en/models/22224-tolerance-test to help understand how much clearance you need for stuff like this. It can be different across different types of filament, different nozzles and a depending on your printer tune. Subtract your clearance amount from one component of the joint and it’ll fit sweetly. But a small file or emery board will sort this out in the meantime.

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/SilentBob890, May 23 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tlv32m/toniebox_flipper_zero_holder/ We travel by car a lot to see family and the toniebox is one my son’s favorite things. Carrying around all the different figurines was a pain and they would often get lost, misplaced, or forgotten somewhere and it always ended up with a sad boy or me having to spend another $15+ on another figurine. I have a Flipper Zero, and I copied all the figurines we own. But the flipper zero kept sliding around… So I designed this little holder to keep the Flipper Zero in place, in the car or even when he’s running around with it from room to room. Link to print here: https://makerworld.com/models/2839938?appSharePlatform=copy

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/dadbodfat, May 23 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tljwmb/what_adhesive_is_best_for_pla_and_making_airtight/

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/ximeni, May 20 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1ti4w4n/will_hydrogen_peroxide_degrade_my_print/ I've made a cup for my husband to sanitize his mouthguard- he soaks it in hydrogen peroxide. Will the H2O2 degrade the PLA after a while? He usually soaks the mouthguard for an hour or two.

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/HitsLikeHell, May 16 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tf6xd8/printed_my_brain_with_100_mripictures_its_kinda/

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/ThereFarAway, May 13 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1tbyr62/leaking_vase_print/ For the first time I tried printing a vase. I am using petg and 'non leaking' model. But, as you can see, at the connection of bottom layer and outer wall it is leaking. Printed in vase mode with settinga given with stl (0.4 head, 0.2 base height, 0.28 layer height). What am i doing wrong?

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/Veastli, May 07 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1t5veib/bambu_lab_sent_a_ceaseanddesist_the_agpl_might/

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/tasty__cakes, May 04 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1t36xtd/turtle_race/ I made a little electromechanical game for 2 players. Each player has a single button to press. When the light turns green, you press the button to advance your turtle a tiny bit. Keep pressing the button until the light turns red. If you press the button when the light is red, your turtle will move backwards. The first one to cross the road wins!

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/Fortwaba, May 02 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1t1l4gw/how_clean_are_your_supports_yes/

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/pimparoo25, Apr 28 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1syb1c4/how_are_you_all_doing_embedded_magnet_prints/ Just tried for the first time and all my magnets instantly magnetised to the hot end, pulling them out of their pockets. Thanks.

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/illusior, Apr 28 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1sxzx6m/this_3d_printed_orrery_updates_itself_once_per/ I designed this fully 3D printed solar system model that updates itself once per day. All eight planets are mounted on separate rings, and the Moon is included as well, showing the correct phase. The whole mechanism is driven by a single motor and runs a short sequence to position everything. The interesting part is that it doesn’t use a traditional gear train. All rings rotate freely and are picked up and positioned one by one, which keeps the design relatively simple. Getting it to run smoothly was probably the hardest part. The rings sit in shallow grooves, so sanding and print quality make a huge difference. If a ring doesn’t spin freely for a couple of rotations after a push, it won’t work reliably. Here’s a short video of it in action (the movement looks simple, but it’s oddly satisfying to watch): [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZWWDG4Uw-U](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZWWDG4Uw-U) If you want to build one yourself, I’ve put all files and instructions here: [https://www.instructables.com/Meridian-Orrery](https://www.instructables.com/Meridian-Orrery)

From Reddit saved comment — r/3Dprinting, u/RotaryDesign, Apr 28 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1sxx8av/just_got_into_3d_printing_this_is_my_first_little/oipyvur/ Comment on: Just got into 3D printing, this is my first little project that I’m kinda proud of Just to let you know; this will get slimy and disgusting very quickly as prints are porous being perfect breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. I recommend giving it few coats of acrylic lacquer and you should be fine

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/necromagiks, Apr 26 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1swmi0y/my_wife_got_this_from_her_cousin_who_was_leaving/

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/EaglerCore, Apr 26 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1svx5q3/54_second_benchy_for_all_those_who_havent_seen_yet/ [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbLPCK5fKhc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbLPCK5fKhc) Yeah, its insane. Roetz must be raging right now because a AWD corexy just beat his heck of a setup lol. It is more of a BSO though (benchy shaped object)

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/Nokoro1, Apr 24 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1suvdco/3d_slicing_on_phone/ To all the people that say "phones cant handle slicing", well here it is. Not even done with optimization, but as you can see here it slices on my phone as fast if not FASTER than on my computer. BTW, no shortcuts to the GCODE were taken, its still a perfect GCODE as you would get on OrcaSlicer

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/idjuan2, Apr 17 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1snwoe8/designed_a_organizer_for_my_apple_cables/ Always wanted a neat organizer for my cables. Couldn’t find one so I designed it by myself. For now the design only fits for Apple c to c 1m woven cable and Apple watch aluminum head cable( woven and tpe). Files on the Maker world, just search idjuan. Thank you for your support!

From Reddit saved post — r/3Dprinting, u/StickAtSea, Apr 13 2026 https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1sk7s7j/what_are_the_most_underrated_functional_prints/ As per title, I'd like to see some of the hidden gems you've come across that for whatever reason are not as 'famous' as you think they should be. If possible, please refrain from advertising your own models, unless you think they truly fit the request I'll start **(not my model)**: [https://www.printables.com/model/418472-one-click-filament-clip](https://www.printables.com/model/418472-one-click-filament-clip) Imho this filament clip is so good, it's criminal how it's overshadowed by its more popular counterparts, it's so easy to use and works so damn well, I truly consider this the "ultimate" clip